Here is the short version: an induction hob does not heat a pot directly. It generates a magnetic field, and that field induces heat inside the pot's base. If the pot's base does not respond to magnetism, nothing happens. No heat. No cooking. So before you spend money on new cookware, a single fifteen-second test at home will tell you whether what you already own will work, and the checklist below will tell you what to look for in anything new.
Quick answer: Hold a fridge magnet to the bottom of your pot. If it sticks firmly, the pot is induction-compatible. Beyond that, check that the base is flat, covers enough of the hob zone, and is thick enough to distribute heat evenly. Those four things decide whether induction cooking works well or frustrates you.
Stage 1, The Magnetism Test (Non-Negotiable)
What you are testing and why
Induction relies on ferrous (iron-containing) metal. Cast iron and most stainless steel with a magnetic layer in the base are compatible. Pure aluminium, copper, most non-magnetic stainless, ceramic, and glass are not. The easiest field test: press a fridge magnet firmly against the outside of the pot's base. A strong hold means the pot will work. A weak pull or none at all means it will not, regardless of what the packaging says.
Reading the base markings
Manufacturers often stamp a coil symbol on the base to indicate induction compatibility. That symbol is useful but not always trustworthy, some budget pots print it as a general claim without a sufficiently thick magnetic layer. The magnet test is faster and more honest. If you are buying in a shop, bring a small magnet or ask staff to do the test in front of you. Online purchases should specify "induction-ready" with a full stainless or cast iron base, not just "suitable for all hobs" in small print.
Stage 2, Base Geometry: Flat Is Not Optional
Why a warped base kills performance
Induction transfers energy across the contact area between the hob surface and the pot base. A base that is even slightly bowed, warped, or ridged reduces that contact, producing uneven hot spots and longer heating times. This is the failure mode that the magnet test will not catch. A pot can be perfectly magnetic and still underperform because the base lost its flatness after years of thermal shock, typically from being plunged under cold water while still hot.
Before buying a used or discounted pot, set it on a flat surface (or the hob glass when cold) and check for rocking. Any movement is a problem. New pots from reputable brands will be flat, but it is worth checking at the shelf rather than after you get home.
Encapsulated vs single-layer bases
A single-layer magnetic base works, but an encapsulated base (where aluminium or copper is sandwiched between layers of stainless steel) distributes heat far more evenly. The magnetic outer layer does the induction work; the conductive inner layer spreads the heat across the full base before it climbs the walls. For sauces and stews this distinction matters more than brand name or colour.
Stage 3, Base Diameter and Hob Zone Matching
The sizing rule
Induction hobs have defined heating zones, and most units detect whether a pot is present by sensing the magnetic field within that zone's boundary. A pot base that is too small may not register at all, or may trigger an error code. A pot that is significantly larger than the zone is not dangerous, but only the area above the coil will heat efficiently, the outer base stays cooler, which can cause uneven cooking.
Common built-in hob zone diameters vary, and portable single-zone induction units (typically around 2,000W) usually have a single coil sized for pots roughly 12-26 cm in diameter. Check your hob's manual for the minimum and maximum compatible pot diameter before buying. Most manufacturers print this clearly; ignoring it is how buyers end up with a beautiful pot that the hob refuses to recognise.
Matching pot size to what you actually cook
A 28 cm stockpot on a compact two-zone built-in hob works fine for boiling pasta but wastes energy if you only ever fry eggs. A 14 cm saucepan on a large zone may not trigger detection on some hobs. Practical rule: keep your everyday pots within the middle of your hob's rated zone range, and reserve outsized pots for the specific jobs they are meant for.
Stage 4, Material, Coating, and Durability
Stainless steel
The most common induction-compatible material. Look for 18/10 stainless (18% chromium, 10% nickel) for corrosion resistance, this matters in Singapore's humid climate, where cheaper stainless can pit or discolour faster than you'd expect, especially if pots are left damp in a closed cabinet. Stainless does not have a non-stick surface, so some technique is needed to prevent sticking, but it is durable, dishwasher-safe, and does not degrade over time the way coatings can.
Cast iron
Excellent for induction: naturally magnetic, retains heat well, and improves with use. The weight is the real trade-off, a 26 cm cast iron skillet can exceed 3-4 kg before any food goes in. Enamelled cast iron adds a non-reactive surface and makes cleaning easier. Both work on induction. Both will scratch a glass hob surface if dragged rather than lifted; always lift, never slide.
Non-stick coated pots
Many non-stick pots now have an induction-compatible magnetic base, so the coating and the compatibility are separate questions. The coating's quality determines how long it stays non-stick. Pans with thinner coatings on a single-layer base tend to show wear within a year of daily use, particularly with metal utensils. If you are buying a non-stick induction pot, look for a thicker base (typically 3 mm or more is a reasonable indicator), PFOA-free labelling, and a brand that specifies the number of coating layers.
Stage 5, Handle Design, Weight, and Everyday Practicality
Handle material and heat transfer
Induction heats the base, not the air around the pot, so handles stay cooler than on gas, but a handle that conducts heat from the body of the pot can still get warm over a long simmer. Riveted stainless handles are sturdy; silicone-wrapped handles are cooler to touch but degrade faster in humid storage. Check that handles are riveted or welded (not screwed), and that rivets sit flush on the inside so they do not catch food.
Total weight when full
A cast iron pot filled with water can be genuinely difficult to lift safely. Think about who will use the cookware most often, and whether the hob is at a comfortable working height. A lighter stainless or hard-anodised option may be the practical choice for a household where younger children or older family members cook regularly. Ergonomics are rarely discussed at the point of sale but end up mattering every single day.
Stage 6, Lids, Seals, and Compatibility with Your Cooking Style
Lid fit and steam management
A well-fitting lid is underrated. On induction, where you often need to bring water to a boil quickly and then hold a simmer, a lid that seals properly saves both time and energy. Glass lids let you monitor cooking without lifting. Stainless lids are more durable but give no visibility. Avoid lids with plastic knobs if you plan to move pots between the hob and a hot oven.
Oven compatibility
If your cooking style involves starting a braise on the hob and finishing in the oven, check the pot's maximum oven temperature before buying. Many induction-compatible pots are oven-safe to a certain point, but lids, handles, and non-stick coatings each have their own limits. This information should be on the packaging; if it is not, that is itself a signal about the product's quality documentation.
If You Only Do Three Things
- Do the magnet test on every pot you own before assuming your existing cookware is induction-ready. Most households have at least one pot that fails.
- Check your hob's minimum pot diameter in the manual, and make sure any new pot exceeds it. A pot that the hob cannot detect is a pot that cannot cook.
- Prioritise base thickness and flatness over brand or colour. A thick, flat, encapsulated base will perform consistently for years; a thin, single-layer base will disappoint you within months.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use my existing aluminium pots on an induction hob?
Standard aluminium is not magnetic, so it will not work directly on induction. Some aluminium pots have a bonded magnetic steel disc on the base specifically for induction use, check with the magnet test. If there is no magnetic layer, you would need an induction diffuser plate, though these reduce efficiency and are not a long-term substitute for compatible cookware.
Does the pot size have to exactly match the induction hob zone?
Not exactly, but it should be within range. Most hobs specify a minimum and maximum pot diameter for each zone. A pot base that is too small may not be detected; one that is too large will have cold spots toward the rim. Check your hob's manual for the rated range and aim for the middle third of it for everyday cooking.
Will a cast iron pan scratch my induction hob's glass surface?
It can, if you drag it. The glass on an induction hob is tempered and reasonably tough, but raw cast iron has a rough underside that will scratch glass when slid across it. Always lift cast iron pots straight up and set them straight down. Enamelled cast iron has a smoother base and is gentler on glass surfaces.
Is there a wattage I should match between the pot and the hob?
Wattage is a hob specification, not a pot one. The pot does not have a wattage rating. What matters is that the pot's base is large enough and conductive enough to absorb the energy the hob outputs efficiently. A portable single-zone induction unit typically runs around 2,000W; a four-zone built-in hob can exceed 7,000W and usually needs a dedicated electrical circuit. The pot just needs to be compatible and appropriately sized for the zone being used.
How do I know if an induction pot will work with Singapore's electrical supply?
Singapore runs on 230V, 50Hz, and all induction hobs sold here are rated for that supply. The pot itself carries no electrical specification, compatibility is purely about the pot's magnetic base. What you do need to verify is that the hob is installed on the correct circuit: high-power four-zone models typically require a dedicated higher-rated circuit, and that is a job for a licensed electrician rather than a self-check.
Ready to Cook on Induction?
Induction cooking rewards the right setup. Once your pots pass the checklist (magnetic base, flat bottom, correct diameter, good base thickness) the hob's speed and precision become genuinely useful rather than theoretical. If you are still choosing a hob, browse the induction cooker range to see portable and countertop options, or explore built-in induction hobs if you are planning a kitchen renovation. And if you want to sort out the cookware side first, the induction-compatible cookware collection has options that have already cleared the magnet test, the base-thickness question, and the sizing guide, so you can skip straight to cooking.
For anything else in the kitchen, the full appliance range is worth a look, or visit either showroom to see hobs set up and ask the team directly.
While the appliance and cookware brands here are sourced from established manufacturers rather than built in Megafurniture's own factories, the company increasingly produces its furniture (sofas, bed frames, and mattresses) in factories it owns in Johor, Malaysia and Foshan, China, operational since late 2025. That same focus on direct quality control and fair value shapes how Megafurniture selects the appliances it carries and supports them after delivery, with professional setup and after-sales service handled locally in Singapore.